You bought a ramp to spare your older dog a jump into the car. They stop at the bottom and look away. It is easy to think they are being stubborn, especially when they used to leap up without hesitation. But a ramp is a new surface, an incline and possibly a narrow path with a drop on either side. For a dog with pain or poor balance, that is a lot to ask at once.
VCA recommends sturdy ramps with good traction for dogs with mobility problems and time to help them become comfortable using them. The ramp is a tool, not a treatment for the reason jumping has become difficult. Ask your vet about new reluctance, stiffness, falls or pain before you build a training plan around it.
Check the equipment first
Set the ramp on firm ground and make sure it cannot slide, wobble or lift at either end. The surface needs grip, and a dog should not be at risk of falling from the sides. Choose an incline and width suitable for your dog and the place it will be used. If a car ramp is very steep, a longer ramp or a different arrangement may be safer. Do not ask the dog to test equipment you would not trust under their weight.
Look at the approach and landing too. Slippery tile at the bottom or a sharp turn at the top can make a sturdy ramp feel unsafe. VCA also recommends secure rugs or runners on hard floors for dogs with limited mobility. Ask your vet or rehabilitation professional which support device, ramp or level of activity fits your dog's condition, some dogs may need to avoid certain movements rather than practise them.
Begin flat
Lay the ramp flat on the ground in a quiet familiar place. Allow your dog to look, sniff and walk away. Reward a glance or a step toward it. Then reward placing one paw on the surface, if they choose to. You can place a treat on the near end but do not lure the dog so far that they lose balance trying to reach it. Keep sessions brief and let them step off safely.
When walking across the flat ramp is comfortable, raise one end only a little and secure it. Practise slowly. Increase the incline over several sessions only if the dog remains confident and physically comfortable. Use a suitable harness for support if your vet recommends it, never pull a dog up by the collar or force them along the ramp. For a large dog, consider your own back and safety too.
Transfer the skill to the real spot
A dog who crosses a ramp in the living room may still pause at a car door or outdoor steps. Change one feature at a time: the location, the height, then the normal routine. Let the dog explore each setup before expecting a full ascent. If they hesitate, return to an easier height rather than increasing the pressure. Reward descending as well as climbing, because going down can feel different.
Stop if your dog slips, cries, pants unexpectedly, limps or seems increasingly worried. Seek veterinary advice for pain, weakness or a sudden change. A veterinary rehabilitation professional can help assess mobility and equipment. A ramp can reduce the need for a jump, but it cannot make an untreated painful movement safe.
Common mistakes
Placing the ramp at full car height on day one asks for too much. Using a smooth, unstable board can teach the dog that ramps are dangerous. Pulling them by the lead may cause a fall. Assuming refusal is behavioral can miss pain or vision changes. And training only the ascent leaves the return trip unpractised.
For today, secure the ramp flat and reward your dog for simply investigating it. The first successful lesson may be one paw on the surface, not a car ride. After your vet checks whether the ramp is suitable and comfortable, the senior dog mobility guide can help you think through daily adaptations
Sources: VCA, "Creating a Comfortable Home for Your Mobility Compromised Dog": https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/creating-a-comfortable-home-for-your-mobility-compromised-dog . VCA, "Helping Your Dog with Osteoarthritis": https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/helping-your-dog-with-osteoarthritis.